I’ve been Twittering back and forth about the new lookbook for the Alexander McQueen season for Target’s Go! International line. Amongst the consumers that I tweet with, the consensus is that the line is kind of bland and really ought to be pieced out and paired with other lines. It is, in a thought, McQueen’s concepts of high street basics.

A startling bikini that I actually quite like..
I first started paying attention to the Go! international line when Proenza Schouler took the label for a ride. It was very reminiscent of their actual runway looks and there’s no wonder the corset dresses and moulded tops flew off the shelves. By the time I got to the store, the size selections were minimal and there would be no way I could get them to fit, without hundreds of dollars spent on dramatic tailoring– for that cash, I would have just offed to Barneys and bought the real thing.
I have also been impressed by the re-workings done by Behnaz Sarafpour, Alice Temperley, and Jovovich-Hawk. Up next is Tracy Feith, a designer I am truly unfamiliar with. I will say that the Rogan and Thakoon lines were a disappointment for me– I feel as though they didn’t particularly stray from the jersey balloon dresses normally offered by the most fashionable of value marts.
There is some excitement about the McQ line even from those not usually attuned to fashion. They can’t seem to put a finger on why. I definitely have a theory.
When Karl Lagerfeld started this trend of designers (usually pret-a-porter, but the master KL is by definition a couturier) making collections for high street brands, he kicked off the capsules at the European bastion, H&M. Definitely considered one of the most fashion-forward chains in the world, this was a different sort of line than, say, Donna Karen’s DKNY or Emportio Armani. This wasn’t just a place to have glittery logos emblazoned on tee shirts and cheaper cotton woven into jeans by factories in Myanmar. These clothes were DESIGNED by Karl Himeself. (And H&M is dedicated to paying all people who work for them, even in factories, a living wage. And they are green. Just FYI.)
Though he has famously said he will never stoop to the level of the common people ever again (jerk), it seemed, maybe not appropriate, but at least understandable that the Mighty Karl design for the cutting edge. He is a consumer of all things pop culture (notoriously owns dozens, if not hundreds, of iPods filled with music), this was a chance for trickle-down fashion to meet trickle-up fashion in the happy, mid-priced center.
But why is McQ so apalling? Here is a man who creates some of the most fantastical, couture gowns in the world. Definition: couture: “The highest level of sewing and dressmaking techniques. Traditionally, custom-made clothing, largely made by hand.” We’re talking dresses so expensive, only Middle Eastern royalty can afford them. Dresses that can, and usually do, cost over $35,000. Massive chunks of change.
Head over to the Style.com archive and search for couture shows. There are only ten brands listed– that’s an exclusive club. Do you see how many of those designers are American?
None. Nada. Zippo. Nein. Cero. Aucun.
But the British McQueen designed couture collections for Givenchy for years.
And now he’s designing for an American value-mart. Carine Roitfeld is probably going to plotz herself, while Anna Wintour (the woman who championed designer denim and basically created the niche market) should deservedly pat herself on the back. I can’t wait to see Cameron Diaz or Rhianna photo’d in one of McQueen’s Target frocks. It will change fashion across the world.